Woke up today, 0540. The plan seemed fading. Not only was it late, but I had morning tea waiting and Shiv was more interested in playing Table Tennis than a walk through the woods. The two of us finally left for table tennis by 0600, but some biting remarks managed to revert Shiv's decision midway. Off, now, we headed towards the slopes of Nainital more populated by Langurs than humans.
I had plans to return back no before we reach Kilbury - a small place beyond the Nainital hills known solely for its floral beauty. Kilbury is about 12km from Nainital (Mallital) by road, the final 9km (starting at Tonk) being void of any human populace (its forests all through). There is a nature trail from Tonk as well, but it promises the same 9km of trek as it goes parallel to the road for a considerable while. The only shortcut that makes a real difference on foot is one which cuts through the town of Nainital to bring you out at Tonk - you save a km or two, but it involves the steepest of climbs I have come across anywhere. Anyways, with promises of a good 20km or so of walk we left. We would go by road, to return back by the nature trail. No baggage; not even water or refreshments.
Once we were past the crowds of Nainital and past Tonk, we were truly in nature's territory. Thick deciduous forests on either side of the road - pine was rare, it was more of Sal. Walking for miles on motorable road without coming across any people sure is something I'd be recalling to my love child(ren). Just langurs and the birds in sight. One could tell how untouched this side of the hill is by their instincts. The Langurs fled away on our approach, huge masses of white/ash hopping between trees. With the urban Langurs, you would expect nothing short of a stand off, where you either end up being chased away or hollering at them, threatening them with any objects within grasp. The sun was out but veiled behind fluffy morning clouds, a mere white dot slowly rising in the sky. After about an hour and forty minutes of walk we reached the Forest Rest House at Kilbury. The place generally doesn't entertain any blokes who show up, but we had a very recent acquaintance in the form of the caretaker of the place. He let us in and offered us some tea as well (prepared on the traditional chulha, not a gas cylinder).
After finishing the tea and a general sortie, we left the place. It was 0800, two hours since we left Nainital. Now we would take the nature trail through dense forest. One - we didn't have any prior idea of the trail, and Two - I had just heard loud barks of a Kakar on the first of the hills that the path would wind through, so was expecting coming across it. The path went parallel to the motor-road for a while, then crossed hills to take its own course. We didn't come across that Kakar, but did come across hill women collecting dry branches in bundles. The path then plunges down, crossing a small stream and then back up. The thick foliage blocks all sunlight and its a rush finding yourself all alone 'out there'. We marched on. No wildlife still, but some very indulgent vistas. The path soon became familiar. The bends and trees and shadows somehow told me I'd been here before. A few minutes into the feeling, and it was confirmed. I did come this far on my previous futile attempt to reach Kilbury on foot, on my (epic) April visit. I could identify the trees and curves now. Soon we joined the trail down from China/Naina Peak and in some time, we were back at Tonk, back to the fringes of Nainital. We finally descended down to Nainital by 0930 - an exhausting outing of three and half hours. Good enough for the day.
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