Tuesday, March 01, 2016

Russians climbing it right

There are several things on my mind. To filter out through, on this morning, to chagrin (maybe fate), is the history on the V Thread (aka the Abalakov Anchor) an anchor made using, but ultimately sans the ice screws. The screws are drawn out, and all that's left is ice and rope, and a 200-400lb load in the form of you, the anchored.

When its Soviet inventor, Vitaly Mikhalovich Abakov, engineered it in the 1930s, he was arrested for embracing western mountaineering techniques; something similar to the sedition charges that our dissenting loud mouths face today. Only if the dissenters in our country were arrested for "making" than "saying" things, we would see a much healthier environment despite dissent that might even lead to some fantastic application of a small principle towards solving a big problem.

The first hollow screws were developed in the 1930s and were much faster to place than their predecessors; their hollow core allowing for relief of pressure as chewed up ice could spit out the end of the screw. It wasn’t until the 50s or 60s that thicker screws were made with a larger core. It was sometime during that period that Abalakov invented the V-thread and dramatically changed what climbers thought was possible on steep ice and alpine routes.

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