Showing posts with label rishikesh. Show all posts
Showing posts with label rishikesh. Show all posts

Saturday, November 05, 2011

Rishikesh: back ON

Anticipating to be spending my next weekend at Rishikesh - the holy city of thug monkeys, misogynistic sadhu babas, and avant-garde architecture. Of all the commitments I've failed to meet (repeatedly) lately, Rishikesh would be there at the top. Having entertained my friends with the restrictive urban outings, and having entertained the demands of microscopic family politics, I can now briefly reveal the digit next to the index to all these factors, and go shuffle aimlessly about in the white sands, pet unpet dogs, chase away urchins, eat sooji (semolina) cookies prepared in teeny-tiny roadside ovens, and fight off monkeys (that often attack to steal those cookies). Also hope to catch on lots of narcissistic, Fritjof Capra wannabes wandering about with a predatory eye to anybody with a nice body, or a heavy pocket, or an empty expression - weekend peddlers of concepts like "light", "time", "being", "god", "oneness", "life", "death", "nirvana", and myriad others.

Last, I remember being there with John, and hold fond memories of a bongo drum that I, sadly, couldn't steal off a weed-smoking Sadhu Baba who lives in a canvas hut near the river (the whole plan was to get him high as fuck, then run away with the drum, but we were short of time on the last day).
Before that I remember spending mere hours in Rishikesh with Saurabh, on the last leg of our suicidal retreat from Dodital. We had Paranthas, then we rushed for our bus.
And on the visit previous to that, I had befriended a Solvenian soul-traveler - our soulful bond born of her thin appetite that always brought forth an invitation to share, which made for my primary motivation to stick around her, especially around the meals - who was a tolerable company, until she came to sharing her spiritual quotient. In the end she was overtly joyed with our time together, I was too busy identifying the last of that banana cake on my tastebuds.

I'm already sniffling. My (pocket form-factor) scribble-book has re-emerged from the depths of my drawers. Rishikesh mode seems ON.

Monday, December 20, 2010

Stay immersed in your head...
Then come up to the surface to breathe in the air filled with new dishes, faces, smalltalk which you feel like eavesdropping on, and John M's digestive travails. Dip back into the river of your thoughts. See the fascinating piles the words make, gawk at the logical conclusions further down the course; try shutting out the multilingual chatter smalltalk about yourself in the physical dimension, try looking involved, or try looking a traveler who's caught the pulse of the moment.

Ganga

Routine again. Step out, down to the river, maybe a 'Hi' to the freewheeling Baba in his bamboo hut along the way and share a chillum or some tea, finally down to the river whose lapping waves and the cold sands in the shadow regions serve a hint to its freezing waters, and the whirlpools at some distance a hint to its torrid nature, strip on the sandy shore, scream and come running and dive as John M does, or gradually walk in deeper and deeper as I do, for a slow sensory awakening, feel the hypothermia waiting at your physical threshold, another dip and then another one, and now in lost notion of all proprieties you walk back on the sandy shore shivering like a rattlesnake's tail and uneasily whistling, find the sun a blessing and sit down atop one of the rocks to sun yourself dry, talk and think like Plato, feel absolved of you 9-to-6-Monday-to-Friday routine, stare into solving the mysteries of geography about you, listen to the discordant truck horns in the distance, pat your canine friends who have confusedly followed you to the river, study the footprints, the ripples, the words that never get to you, the smiles that forever beguile you, the rugged spirit you will forever admire, the nostalgia you will fall into next when you're here.

Sunday, January 11, 2009

Waxing prosaic in Rishikesh

1700
I'm back to the rock and sands that mark my year. 'Back' is potentially misleading, because this is not a relapse, no coming a full circle...just back in the geographical sense. This is Rishikesh where I was in December the past year, thinking over simple things. Then, after a year of wonderful facts, I'm still thinking, but of things that have mutated into a forcibly greater meaning and context. This is nothing holy or spiritual, just questions arising from my affiliations to the society and present era. India has never seemed this confusing before, and my world has never been this confused about me.


1825
There are only 2 places in Rishieksh worth lounging at: the corner seat at the Devraj Cafe and the last seat at ShivaGanga Beach Cafe. Any place else, and you're either too far from R. Ganga and missing the whole reason of being, or in a place where an unexpected number of goras smoking substances make you feel alienated, cramped and looking for an exit. Right now I'm 'missing my reason of being', since I'm a few seats away from that holy seat at Devraj Cafe. But I'm still overlooking the river, though as a part of a montage of the unpleasant drainage pipes, the dumps, dimly-lit shops and the crackpot sadhus - all this lies right next to the great Ganga (Ganges).

50 minutes later
Gabriella did help unwind a bit. I dug her. She's technically a Lithuanian living in Sweden who claims to belong to no particular country and has her history scribed in Lithuania, Sweden, America and India. This is her 3rd visit to India, 1st to Rishikesh and leaves back for Sweden from Delhi on the 14th morning. Here for yoga - and meditation, which she claims is inclusive - she reminds me of the 'sweet little gone gal' of the 60s beat culture - though a bit restrained and deeper. I and her talk about yoga, its practise, application and expanding its definition, her job, her stay here, her travel with this guy (whom she's taking for a fatherly figure but can't really gel with). And then ecology, conservation, mankind being a pest, mankind being a slave of its own condition - things that I get a better hook on. Been just 6 minutes of her leaving, but I already can't draw her in words now - I'm easily distracted in this place. I don't think that my attempts at expressing my little revealations found much audience in her, but I did get a greater share of her chocolate pastry block which was - really was - too big for her. "You are a big man, you can manage this much!" Wooho! I got free chocolate. It was fate; I was meant to consume you. Talk about taking 'brownie points' literally.

Monday, July 07, 2008

Grandeur of Kedarnath, now visible to all

The Kedarnath (and Hardwar and Rishikesh) trip image galleries are out there! Me and my college classmates undertook this trip in May of 2008, right after our exams were wrapped up with. Hardwar and Rishikesh came first on our map, then Shivpuri for adventure camp + rafting, then to Gaurikund and finally trekking up to the Kedar. The days didn't go without adventure (and stomach upsets). Some left midway, some joined midway and we thinned out from 7 in Rishikesh (6 in Hardwar) to 4 in Kedarnath (Anikesh, Deepanjan, Piyush, me).

Here is some link fodder:
* Kedarnath-Rishikesh-Hardwar :: trip briefing
* Moi Image Gallery
* Anikesh's Image Gallery

Spent some time adding a file module (to the website) to share any useful resources like docs, links, maps, pdf, etc. Expect some activity in that corner soon (even for the Leh and, maybe, Gethia).

Sunday, June 08, 2008

Good to start from the beginning



"Sarath explaining his stomach upset - being as graphic as he can - to derive sadistic pleasure from our contorted faces has been the high point of my trip this far. Rest falls pale. The day hasn't started off good. Our journey is into its 12th hours and there are defeated expressions (which, though, I'm sure a light nap can cure). Our first leg of the journey didn't go without flaws. Of the kind that nobody would've expected, really. We went past Hardwar to reach Rishikesh in the wee hours of the morning. We were expecting to stay awake all through the bus journey, only to fall asleep half an hour before we zipped past Hardwar..."

My recent acquisition of the complete sets of photographs from everybody's cameras marks the culmination of the Hardwar-Rishikesh-Kedarnath trip. Now that the memories are fresh again, I shall make attempts to put it all together.
Also ended up with a fractured journal from the trip, which might be helpful. Missing gloriously on the full moon about which I was looking forward to did plenty to dampen my urge to write when on the move.

The accompanying photo is deceptive, except for my outright blasphemy. This was our only relation to the great Kedar shrine. Neither did we attempt to queue up in the long lines, nor give any offerings. Piyush and I got busy seeing beyond the religious side of Kedarnath - in the spirit of traveling and on the fringes of exploration - while Anikesh and Deepanjan made the most of the room rent by staying indoors.

More chronicles to follow (sooner than you'd contract alzheimer's).

Monday, May 26, 2008

Creating Devotional Stereotypes

Was an audience to the grand religious festivity at 'Paramarth Niketan' again. Had a smaller crowd than the last time, which I believe could've been for the fact that it was under repairs of sort - they had cordoned off a section of R. Ganga to prepare for a greater display of devotion towards Lord Shiv in the future. All that most come for is a good alien experience, theatrics. Not finding that surely must've sent them looking elsewhere. The post-आरती scene at Paramarth Niketan was typical. A handful of people made up for the crew. A vocalist (गाय़क), a tabla player (तबलावादक) and a handful of people at the mixing desk (मिक्समर्द?). They were surrounded by a crowd, mainly Indian. The foriegners were at a distance.

The only retard observation I could make was that all the crowd was facing the vocalist (sitting amongst them on the stairs that lead to R. Ganga). They twisted about their neck and waist to face in that general direction, as if it were the epicenter of some devotional waves. It was disturbing how the weight of their vision would carry a great significance towards how they would frame a thought or discourse on their God. For once, those with cursory glances seemed more religious - they were understanding aspects of religion rather than just giving in to how somebody else interprets it and feeds it to you.
Being a witness to the creation of a stereotype: to be (or superficially feel like being) committed to God, you have to put on all the theatrics of _this_ kind. You need the men in ochre - alongwith all their paraphernalia to make noise and light - and an audience (that can make it look like a grand display of devotion) to appease the Gods. Here is where the Pundit turns into a businessman.
2008-05-18/22:15, Rishikesh :: Archival Diary Entry

Spent 3 hours walking alongside R. Ganga, between Lakshman and Ram Jhula, the iconic suspension bridges that define Rudraprayag. Had 3 interactions in all
  1. With a black 'bhotia' dog barking at me from a distance. Felt threatened.
  2. With a waiter to order myself a dinner. Felt hungry.
  3. With the restaurant owner to make some corrections in the bill (a very minor, Rs.5 one, though). Felt cheated.

So conceited and personal, am I not?
2008-05-18/22:00, Rishikesh :: Archival Diary Entry

Sitting and thinking over this log, I notice a couple - both foriegners - crossing Lakshman Jhula. It was quite late and the bridge had almost no other crowd. Pitch black, owing both to the absence of any lights on the Jhula as well as a full moon obscured by the clouds.
A motorcycle crossing over at the same time approaches the couple. Its light beam falls on the couple, and the moment suddenly jumps to a new realm. There isn't much light deflecting off the suspension ropes. The beam makes the couple seem suspended mid-air, floating across over R. Ganga. The lady is wearing a long skirt that moves with the wind flowing over the bridge, which further adds to that ethereal touch.

Sunday, May 25, 2008

Kedarnath Trip Ends

Back from Kedarnath. But not Delhi, in Gethia (Nainital). Reached here the day before after a 23 hour bus ride: Guarikund-Hardwar, then Hardwar-Nainital, then a couple of kms of walk through the forest to Gethia as the dawn was breaking. Beautiful cloud patterns before they were dissolved by the morning sun.

The trip was great on a personal level. Having friends that kept falling ill in random order was irritating. Did explore plenty of Kedarnath, and find reasons to loathe the sadhu babas/beggars/escapists. It is baffling how little people see when they visit such places. Me and Piyush share plenty of common thoughts over that.

Lost my cellphone on the 20th. That day started with a lull and culminated with a loss. But a loss that I can't feel sad for; the cellphone was lost the same way I acquired it - on the streets, and my connection's validity was about to end on 23rd, after which I planned to switch to a new one.

Its good out here in Gethia. Quite a chill, warm sun, cloud cover that piles up by the day to finally break into a rain around the evenings.

There's lots to share from the trip - photographs and thoughts alike. Plenty of time and minimal of responsibilities on hand to do that. Nice.

PS: If we have spoken over the phone anytime in the past 6 months, pls mail me your cell number

Monday, May 19, 2008

2008-05-18 :: Archival Diary Entry

Rishikesh today. Another hectic start. Indiscretion over our directions to catch the bus to Rishikesh got us tired and sweaty till we found wheels to our sojourn. We started off with a breakfast of bananas (and only that), walked a couple of miles before hawking one of the shared tempos. The tempo ride to Rishikesh was equally stressful as I carried the weight of my entire luggate throughout without an inch's space to occasionally flex my aching limbs. We ended up paying, I believe, for a slightly overpriced ride to Laskman Jhula, Rishikesh.

Stay in Rishikesh

In Rishikesh right now. Stuck. Missed the last bus to Rudraprayag, the whole group - except for me and piyush - contributing to that delay.

Checked into an Ashram today. This is the first time I'm having acquaintence with the ways of the Ashrams here. It ain't bad at all. The accomodation, as one can expect, is rubbish. Dingy, damp rooms with large empty spaces that leaves you puzzled. But your room would ideally only serve for your base, only to be used mainly in the late hours. Walk outside into the courtyard or deeper into the meditation halls and you'll find a whole new world. Clean, austere spaces and availability of chilly drinkable water. The crowd was great. Little mingling this far, but serene faces.
Yoga. One more new thing. All a part of the Ashram stay. It was brilliant, but tiring. There were plenty of foriegn practitioners, in fact everybody apart from me and friends weren't Indians by citizenship. The instructor turned out to be a modest, friendly guy.
Maybe missing out the last bus wasn't that bad a thing.

Rafting - another new thing. The most convenient adventure one could possibly have.

But I'll write more on all that later.