Makalu Basecamp, Part 1
Makalu Basecamp, Part 2
Day 7:
Destination: Yangle Kharka
I leave by 0700. 4 mountain passes to cross.
First views of the big peaks beyond Kongma La.
On snow now. The trail was hard to make out, situation further alleviated by a fog. The descent from Shipton La (4230m) was made memorable by this glimpse at 'Thulo Pokhari' (translates to 'Big Lake') through a window in the fog, which tinkled some primal corner.
Then came Dobato, then Mumbuk, then a hardy hike straight down a stream, and then the thunder of Barun Khola while walking on a thin ribbon of a trail just above the river.
The trail seemed endless. A long rocky stretch brought out all in me. I had been on the trail for 10 hours now, and yet there was no indication of civilization (after Dobato). There were about 6 waterfall crossings involved.
I looked around and found the proprietess of a restaurant and asked her for a meal, pitched my tent, and slept long after a reasonable meal of Dal-Bhat.
It should be noted that Yangle is where even hot water has a price.
Day 8:
Felt amazing waking up in Yangle. Left after a breakfast of Chow-Chow with eggs.
Destination: Hillary Basecamp
The trail is deceptive. It rises and rises and you don't even come to know of it.
Tired is what I started with, and grew even more so with the day. The previous day had sucked out all juice from me.
Found a yak right in the middle of it as it passed through forest. It was huge. Bjork's Wanderlust started playing in my head.
Features abound on this day. I started in a glacially-weathered valley with waterfalls running off hanging glaciers, then to pasture lands, and then to moraine fields which were void of any green. It is easily the most beautiful of the days, benevolent weather gods permitting.
Yak Kharka had no shacks operating. Made me tense. Then came Langma Le, where I did see somebody, but asleep. Armed with a compass, I went ahead.
By 1400, I found myself unsure of the way. The riverbed opened up into a playground and there were many directions to head into. I had speculations about the trail, but then snowing ensued, and I found myself in a tight corner.
Decided to camp here, and do a recce in the evening. A herd of yaks came to check me out.
Day 9:
Felt like waking waking up in a dream. The valley that had scared me into submission yesterday looked so beautiful.
Destination: Makalu Basecamp
As per calculations, Hillary BC (or the lower Makalu BC) should be over that ridge, possibly 2 hours ahead. Beyond that, another 5 hours to MBC. Could I do it?
Reached Hillary BC by 0830, had chow-chow, and left for Makalu BC. By 4PM, I was back, having found myself lost and struggling on the rocks. Then I slept like a sick person through the evening, had dinner, and slept more.
Day 10:
I set out by 0730, with a Nepali boy who was to show me through the past where I'd got lost yesterday.
It was hard to believe that there was any trail, coz there wasn't. It is just the rocky moraine you walk through for hours, keeping a track of the cairns for directions. Even the physical recovery of yesterday only got me through till noon.
I found myself going crazy trying to figure out the route to the MBC. Sure, I had a map and a compass, but they don't point out the finer details.
By 1300, I was on the verge of breaking down. Then it started snowing, and I was crouched under a rock for a while, blowing my whistle for any porters to pick up. My camera battery ran out. Horrible feeling.
I did a recce, and started on a trail higher up on the right, that I assumed was the right one; a group of porters made up the same trail soon after, and I was relieved. Their presence provided a great psychological push (besides the fact that they took my rucksack). In a couple of hours, I got to the basecamp discussing cars and girls (men are predictable), albeit drained of energy.
Makalu Basecamp, Part 2
Destination: Yangle Kharka
I leave by 0700. 4 mountain passes to cross.
First views of the big peaks beyond Kongma La.
On snow now. The trail was hard to make out, situation further alleviated by a fog. The descent from Shipton La (4230m) was made memorable by this glimpse at 'Thulo Pokhari' (translates to 'Big Lake') through a window in the fog, which tinkled some primal corner.
The trail seemed endless. A long rocky stretch brought out all in me. I had been on the trail for 10 hours now, and yet there was no indication of civilization (after Dobato). There were about 6 waterfall crossings involved.
Nearing 1830, I saw the valley floor opening up. Some curious moments, and I found myself crossing the dual bridges at "Yangle Kharka", a place wrongly marked on my map much earlier than it actually was.
I looked around and found the proprietess of a restaurant and asked her for a meal, pitched my tent, and slept long after a reasonable meal of Dal-Bhat.
It should be noted that Yangle is where even hot water has a price.
Felt amazing waking up in Yangle. Left after a breakfast of Chow-Chow with eggs.
Destination: Hillary Basecamp
The trail is deceptive. It rises and rises and you don't even come to know of it.
Tired is what I started with, and grew even more so with the day. The previous day had sucked out all juice from me.
Features abound on this day. I started in a glacially-weathered valley with waterfalls running off hanging glaciers, then to pasture lands, and then to moraine fields which were void of any green. It is easily the most beautiful of the days, benevolent weather gods permitting.
By 1400, I found myself unsure of the way. The riverbed opened up into a playground and there were many directions to head into. I had speculations about the trail, but then snowing ensued, and I found myself in a tight corner. 
Felt like waking waking up in a dream. The valley that had scared me into submission yesterday looked so beautiful.
Destination: Makalu Basecamp
As per calculations, Hillary BC (or the lower Makalu BC) should be over that ridge, possibly 2 hours ahead. Beyond that, another 5 hours to MBC. Could I do it?Reached Hillary BC by 0830, had chow-chow, and left for Makalu BC. By 4PM, I was back, having found myself lost and struggling on the rocks. Then I slept like a sick person through the evening, had dinner, and slept more.
I was lucky to spend the night at the cornermost shack, the proprietess of which had some idea about the expeditions up there. Learning that the summit push was to happen today, I found it coincidental, and was charged to do a reattempt.
Destination: Makalu Basecamp
I set out by 0730, with a Nepali boy who was to show me through the past where I'd got lost yesterday.
It was hard to believe that there was any trail, coz there wasn't. It is just the rocky moraine you walk through for hours, keeping a track of the cairns for directions. Even the physical recovery of yesterday only got me through till noon.
I did a recce, and started on a trail higher up on the right, that I assumed was the right one; a group of porters made up the same trail soon after, and I was relieved. Their presence provided a great psychological push (besides the fact that they took my rucksack). In a couple of hours, I got to the basecamp discussing cars and girls (men are predictable), albeit drained of energy.
Widget by Css Reflex | TutZone
Posts
No comments:
Post a Comment