Sunday, November 02, 2008

Straight from the Scene of Adventure

Writing this sitting in the village of Guniyalekh, 12000ft up in the air, and 30km away from an equipped civilization. Village scenes bring up a romantic image; but this doesn't fall for any of those adjectives. Here it isn't rustic or idyllic, it is WILD. Right now there are at least two man-eating tigers operating in the Kumaon region, and their territory can range over a large area, especially these - both the villages of Padampuri and Kala Agar/Kalagarhi that lie on either side of us accounted for kills in the times of Jim Corbett. It is after dark that I'm writing this; there are only sleeping forests of pine and oak to give company; the stretch of road down the sight lies empty, except for the odd farmer or two awaiting the arrival of a mini-truck to carry their farm produce to the lower regions of Haldwani. We - me and my baby brother - reached here just a little while ago, trekking up our hill in the pale light of tonight's moon; it was great luck that we managed to reach here after setting out as late as 1700 from Bhowali.

It is darker now. Cold out here but not the kind that freezes your bones. It is a rare moment that the heavenly lights - the stars - outnumber the terrestrial ones; here it is so. A mere 6 household lights on this hill and 8 on the hill facing ours put a dull challenge to the millions of stars above; dim lights of Dhari in far distance are optimistic, yet a detachment. The night sky is as clear as can be and drapes around the landscape like a fabric; only in Lansdowne have I seen better. I just caught my first meteor (that I can vividly recall) - a renegade in the form of a white ball streaking through the blackness at almost my eye level. People immediately follow up with fancy wishes, I followed up with the thought of why anybody would do so upon the annihilation of an object that has traveled millions of miles through the space and holds many secrets for the sciences.

Standing outside on the porch was unsettling. The thought of a carnivore lurking in the vicinity eats your head. It's not the scare for me, it's the anticipation that does it, followed by heroic tales spun in the mind while staring into the blackness. Fact remains that this region has dense forests and there is a certified population of carnivore, but a good number of shikaar (ghoral, kakar, wild fowl etc) to keep them disciplined.

The lightbulb count has further reduced to 4. I'll also take to the bed and await sleep after and exhausting day packed with adventure.

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